Friday, December 5, 2008

In Silence

A number of Buddhists practice periods of silence to deepen their concentration, remove distractions, that sort of thing. I am practicing silence today too, not for the reasons cited above though, but because my cold has gone to my throat and I can hardly speak a word, so...I am in silence.

I have also resorted to wearing a surgicle face mask as I walk around. This cold makes it hard to breathe and the air here is really foul so...on with the mask. I feel a little funny, but if it makes my cold get better or breathing easier, I am all for it. I would say that roughly a third of the people here are wearing masks, so...it is not as strange as it may seem.

We did meet the Karmapa Lama the other day. It really was something. This man is young, only 26, and very handsome. But mostly he has that soft demeanor, that humbleness that is so disarming in a person commanding so much respect. I presented him with a ceremonial shawl, which he then blesses and gives back to you, he then said "hello, how are you?", in perfect english, I was so stunned I could hardly reply. Luckily my voice was still working that day.

Aside from that, the visit here is getting a little long. Yesterday I decided to do Koram while the ani prayed. I figured I would do 30 revolutions, sounded good, one of the ani had done that the other day, so...I thought I would follow suit. Well, it took 3 hours to complete. I was whipped by the end! And the whole time chanting, very softly, om mani padme hum, it was a long day, but also interesting. There were two old people, a man and a woman, who were there the entire time I was. And these people were OLD. The man walked with a serious stoop and a cane, in what looked to me like a short kimono, the woman, they were not together, was in traditional Tibetan dress, she was unusually tall and walked with her hands fingering her prayer beads behind her back, long braid coiled on her head. It was really inspiring to watch these two just continue to walk and walk and chant.

And that is all for now,

Namaste

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Mosquito Follow Up

So last night I slept slathered in mosquito creme and surrounded by burning coils of mosquito repellent reminiscent of the old days in Kahuku. But the key word there is SLEPT. I feel a whole lot better, and lots less grouchy today. I did awaken with a black eye though, think a well placed mosquito bite from the other day hit a good vessel or something. Of course there is no mirror, so...I have no idea what it really looks like. But, I will take the word of the Ani.

So just to give an idea of what life is like traveling with the ani. Most rise at 4:30, a little later than at home, make their way to the Big Temple and begin their circumambulations, or Koram. They expect to make 108 complete circles by the time they leave. As it is a rather large complex it takes longer than one might think. The Karmapa Lama arrives about 7:00 and prayers begin shortly thereafter. I usually hang back in the room with a few of the others, take Tibetan tea (water, butter and salt) around 6:30 from a mass food line in the courtyard, along with a piece of bread. Then head up to the Gompa. The prayers last pretty steadily until 11:00 and then they return to the monastery for lunch, unually rice and some sort of curried vegetables, not too spicy, the ani add the spice themselves, and you should see their use of hot red pepper, just looking at it makes me sweat.

After lunch prayers start again around 1:00 and last until 5:30 or so with a short break around 3:00.

Dinner back at the dust bowl around 6:00. Dinner is the worst of the meals, last night I managed to get a couple of ani to go out to dinner with me for momo. Its not hard to get them to go, but the head ani wants them all back at the monastery so we had to get permission. I told them I needed their help and that worked with the big nun, what a pain. There are a lot of fruit sellers around so I am getting some vitamins, oranges and bananas, anything I can peel.

We all get back to the room by 7:30 or so and then it is a talk fest until they go to sleep between 8:00 and 10:00. Its amazing that people who see each other all day still have so much to talk about in the evening. Oh well, good for them.

Today we will go visit with the Karmapa Lama in person, all the Ani, I get to go too. That will be interesting. The Karmapa Lama is the head of another Tibetan Buddhist sect, like the Dalai Lama is head of his sect (and the government in exile). It is very special to be able to meet the Karmapa in person. I am looking forward to it.

Oh and just to clarify...it ain't me doing the prostrations!

And that is all from Bohd Gaya today!

Mosquito Food

Any of you remember that old mosquito spray add, where the guy puts his arm in a glass case full of mosquitos? Well, that is me, except it is not just my arm, it is my arm, and my face and my neck! The only good thing is that they don't seem to be terribly itchy, please let that continue to be the case!

There is no mirror in the monastery where we are staying, that would be "knuckly" is what the nuns call it. Not sure but think that translates roughly as vain. Anyway, at the temple yesterday I went to the bathroom (clean and relatively smell free, upkeep paid for by a group in Thailand, thank you, thank you, thank you)and while rinsing my hand I happened to glance up at the mirror, a small poxed face stared back at me. It really was amazing. Last night I almost screamed as I couldn't sleep for the constant buzz, and now I am getting totally skeeved by thinking that these mosquitoes are bred in the stinking, fetid, standing water that lines the roads, oh that is a nice image. Strait from the stink swamp to my face!

Today I found some mosquito creme and I hope it will work, other wise I am likely to get grouchy, or to just try to get out of here, of this I can't take 6 more nights.

Other than that...it is still interesting, a bit boring as I can't really understand anything, all that is said is said in Tibetan (almost). Today there was one discussion in english, but as there are three other groups around all chanting and a whole bunch of people doing prostrations,yes that means going down on your knees and then flat on the ground face down before getting up and doing it again, I couldn't really hear anything. Three of our ani will stay behind and do prostrations for a month after we leave. Damn!

Okay, so maybe it wasn't the best idea to come to India, I gotta figure something out. ta ta for now.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Bodh Gaya, India

Okay, I could have sworn I posted a comment on Thanksgiving day, but no matter. It is now Monday and I am in Bodh Gaya, India, the place where Lord Buddha reached enlightenment. It is a pretty knarley place all together. The temple area is lovely and the meditation garden is lovely, but the rest of the place, well, it is India.

I had a wild time getting here. An almost full day at the Indian Embassy in Kathmandu started it off. Then one of the nuns invited me to her house to spend the night as we would be leaving from Kathmandu the next day, so...I did that. We also went to another nun's family's house to meet her for tea and had dinner with an ex nun, all very interesting. The next day, the day after thanksgiving in the US, we had our own version of Thanksgiving in Kathmandu. The ani (nun) with whom I am staying, Sara, has a number of cousins who are monks and she wouldn't see them for a long time because once she comes back from India they will all go, so...we had them over for food. I can't say breakfast or lunch, because it is just food and it starts being served early and just keeps coming.

I made scrambled eggs in the morning, after shopping with Sara for the meal, the boys ate that, after they had their noodle soup, then we had cracker buiscuts while were making momo, known in our area as dim sum. We cooked potatoes and made the dough and cut carrots and onions and then made, what seemed like hundreds of momo, which were instantly devoured. It was a trip and lots of fun. The boys are all monks, and yet still boys probaby early 20's or so.

Once we finished all that we had to rush to catch the bus to Boud Gaya, or so I thought. Actually we rushed to sit at the open bus station and wait, and wait, and then wait, and finally wait some more, until, at 5:45 we left. It was a 24 hour bus ride. And I mean ride. The roads in Nepal are bad, the roads in India, at least in this area, practically non existent.

We finally arrived at what could be an old catholic school. It is some sort of monastery but, it is all pale yellow cinder block and dust! I am sleeping in a room with probably 20 ani of all ages, pallets on the floor, not sure which is harder, the floor or the pallets. Mosquitoes are everywhere unless they are crowded out by the dust. Nevertheless, I am having a good time. The bus ride, while, incredibly long and boring, was such a trip. The ani all bring different food and pass it all around, the chatting almost never stopped, it is fun.

I lost my camera the first night here. Was really stupid and left it in a cab, well in a tri-wheeled cab loaded with about 12 ani hanging out of doors and the back and sitting on laps, so...it was pretty funny, but, bummer about the camera, just cause I would like you to see this place. One of the Ani has lent me her camera for while we are here, isn't that sweet? I am getting to know more of the ani, they are openning up now, I think it helps that I was on the bus and peeing in ditches along the side of the road with them, not to mention sleeping in the same room.

Yesterday we decorated the temple all afternoon, in between various eating opportunities, these girls like to eat, and that was great. We waited for their big Rimpoche to arrive, lined on the street with white scarves and bows. There was a children's school from Sikkim down the road waiting as well, they were really cute. They were singing and dancing and were all lined up and the head guy would shout attention and they would all jump to it.

Okay, I am getting tired, I have a wicked cold at the moment, going to go out and sit in the meditative garden. The ani have puja all morning and then this afternoon there is a talk that will be in english. But...I can't sit through the prayers in Tibetan.

Okay li 'dat, welcome to December. I am in short sleeves and slippers! thats it from Bohd Gaya, at least for today.